A Wave

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A Wave


Big Wednesday. It happened the other day: one of those weeks where the buoy 
graphs are flat except for a sharp peak right in the middle of the week. Some 
storm from some far-off place sent a burst of energy our way, then stopped. 

I got up a little late and saw that the bridge was jacked-up. After texting 
and sitting on the fence a while, I decided to just go and do it. 

The paddle-out was TOUGH! I haven't been surfing nearly enough to be in 
shape. Also I don't remember exactly what happened on Tuesday night, but 
something I ate for dinner (or possible second-dinner) wanted to let me know 
that it was still hanging around. 

I paddled for about 45 minutes, nearly barfed once, nearly gave up once. 
Somehow I was able to recover, find a little riptide and get outside (where I 
could sit and recover further). 

Anyway, eventually I got lucky with a pretty sweet wave. I got luckier a few 
days later when someone pointed me to this: 



Sweet!


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